Over the last few years we’ve gradually built up our equipment inventory so we can now offer a wide range of audio and video transfers.

We’re very happy to offer all track formats and speeds of 1/4 inch reel to reel tape transfer.

15 inches per second (ips) and 7.5 ips speeds are normally transferred on, our pride and joy, a Studer A80 RC. We also have a Tascam BR20 and several Revox A77’s for backup. The slower speeds and 4 track stereo formats are catered for by Teac and Sony machines.

We take pride in making sure these machines are calibrated and cleaned before each transfer.

Quite often we receive tape in poor condition this is very often a result of splicing tape ‘drying out’ as it’s a bit like sellotape and the splices breaking as the tape is played.
We are able to splice and repair tape before transfer.

Prices are competitive but not published here as we’ve found each job is different and needs certain attentions that need to be quoted for on an individual basis. We are happy though to offer a assess / listen service as many customers don’t know what’s on their tapes and either don’t have a machine or their old machine is broken.

Recent work has included many valuable family history 5 inch reels. Remember tape is fragile, very susceptible to magnetic fields and doesn’t last forever. It’s worth transferring it or getting it transferred now to keep your memories safe.

I’ve had these belts sitting around for a few months now and they’ve finally come around on my to do list. Thinking this would be nice and easy like the Teac C-3x belts I whipped the cover off my 234 eager to put it back to work transferring those thousands of undiscovered bedroom gems that must be around in peoples’ cupboards.

Tascam 234 4 track tape transport

Looked nicely laid out and well constructed as all this old Tascam equipment seems to be. I thought I’d just take the transport out and it’d be easy. There are just two belts in the 234, the capstan belt and the belt that moves the transport up and down. This cam mode belt had stretched and come off and the capstan belt had pretty much disintegrated. Once I start I find it hard to stop and this isn’t a quick job the first time, you need to be methodical and patient, good screwdrivers help too.

Well here comes the process, it seems pretty daunting at first when you see how many boards, cables and bits you have to remove and disassemble to replace the belts.

Remove Transport

The transport must come out to change belts. The capstan motor and cam motor have to have their mounting plates removed to change the belts and as far as I can see this is impossible unless you remove the transport.

1. Remove all screws holding the transport in. These are on the top and base. Be careful not to round and of the screws.
2. Turn the deck upside down and remove the half of the base plate under the main PCB.
3. You should now have access to all the transport connector blocks. Carefully remove these and clip any cable ties holding bundles together.
4. Now you need to unscrew the pitch control bracket from the front fascia. To do this you’ve got to take the front fascia off, that means all the knobs have to be pulled and the screws top and bottom removed. Remember too the little hidden screws holding the transport control buttons. These are in recessed holes access from underneath. Be careful not to remove them totally and then loose them on the floor like I did! Just undo them a little so the panel comes off and lets to remove the whole fascia so you get access to the power button.
   

   Tascam 234 transport almost out

5. Now you can unscrew the main power button which will let the transport lift out much more easily.
6. Very carefully ease the transport up and angled out of the machine. Be careful not to snag any cables. You’ll need to be firm but gentle..

Replacing the Belts

1. Now you’ve got the transport free, give yourself some space on your workbench and have a look around the transport to familiarise yourself with it.
2. We need access to the motor and capstan area underneath the control PCB.
   

   Tascam 234 transport control PCB removed

3. Undo the two screws on the control PCB and carefully lift it up so you can unslot the PCB from it’s hinge at the other end.
4. Now you can almost access the cam mode motor and the capstan but you need to remove some more screws.
5. This is where it starts to get tricky! You can do the cam mode belt first. This is the belt that is square sectioned and moved the headblock up and down depending what the tape deck is trying to do.
6. Remove the three screws that hold the metal plate down that the cam mode motor is fixed to.
7. You can now lift this up, and get the old belt out and hook the new belt around the large pulley while lowering the plate back down. You must lift the plate, the belt cannot be replaced without doing this.
8. WARNING - Make sure you clip the white gear with the slot over the section in the large black cam wheel. If you forget or don’t do it right the PLAY, FF, RW etc modes will all be wrong and not work and you’ll have to take the transport all out again! Beware I did it!! I don’t have a picture of it as I was so annoyed at having to do this all again I forgot.
9. Now you can screw the plate back down and using tweezers or a bent paper clip hook the cam belt over the motor pulley. I think I managed to put it on while the plate was off and get it back on without it falling off.
10. Now for the capstan pulley which I found the hardest.
11. Remove a few more screws to lift the plate the capstan pulley and motor is attached to. Now the capstan can be lifted out. Be careful to lit it straight up and not bend it.
12. This is a good time for a bit of lubrication. Put some very light oil on the capstan shaft where it goes into the bushing. I use Prolong Precision Oil which comes in an easy dispenser. Also using IPA clean up the capstan wheel if there’s any left over trace of old belt and put a dab of grease on the end of the capstan where it gets held by the capstan plastic tension screw.
13. What I did next was hook the capstan belt over the capstan, trying not to get any grease or oil on it, then pull it over the motor pulley. You kind of have to hold the plate and motor taught in one hand while you do the belt threading and also keep this up when you relocate then plate in the transport with the screw holes lined up - Took me a few attempts but I got there in the end.

Reassembly

1. Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly as Haynes manuals often say! Just dont rush and it’s worth checking the belts are really on correctly and the little white bit in the cam gears is located correctly.
2. Put the rest of the transport together, the control PCB and relocate the wires that you may have disturbed. There’s black stiff wire that can be wrapped around the cables to stop them fouling anything moving.
3. Put the transport back into the deck but take care to locate the cables so they’re not getting fouled or pulled to tight. You did take some digital photos before you took it apart didn’t you?
4. Remake all the connector connections. You can’t really get these wrong as they are colour coded and different sizes.
5. Screw the power switch back on.
6. Feed the transport control panel cables back in and hook this up to the front panel.
7. Relocate the front panel. You may have to move the VU meters a little to get it to slot back in and nudge the push switches. Just don’t force anything.
8. Almost done now. Just screw everything backup and switch on!

Testing

1. Double check all your connections are right and you haven’t left any screws of tools lying around inside the machine!
2. Power it back on check the transport functions. It should move into play, FF, RW, STOP etc smoothly and quickly. You may need to adjust the STOP control POT to make sure the head base is at it’s lowest position when in stop. Use a ceramic adjuster for this if you have one.
3. If everything is working well done. If it doesn’t go into STOP properly and let you eject and it eats tape you’ve probably done what I did and not locate the cam mode gears / followers correctly and I’m afraid you’ll have to take it all apart to fix. It’s go much quicker the next time though if it makes you feel any better!!

I recently ordered and replaced the capstan and counter belt on this cassette deck. These parts are easily available from Fred Marrs who sells a huge range of correctly sized replacement belts through his eBay shop. He has even gone to the lengths of remanufacturing the Nakamichi OC 8096 capstan belt to the correct specs.

This Teac machine is a really nice 3 head cassette deck, built like a tank, and very similar if not identical to the original Tascam 122. I don’t use this deck for normal cassette transfers as I feel my Nakamichi decks generally sound better but this is one of the few decks that can record and playback at double the normal speed so it’s reserved for these transfers and as a backup.

The transport is quick and easy to remove and the belt was easy once the capstan had been removed - this was also greased and oiled a little too.

Teac C-3x transport removed

Teac C-3x capstan motor with new belt

Everything went well until  I tested it with an old tape - It would play for a few seconds then the take up reel would stop letting tape get pulled around the pinch wheel, well and truly chewed!  It looked like the rubber drive wheel that the reel motor works against has perished at one point or slips. I also noticed that the little rubber sleeves that act as brakes on the reels have perished too. I’m going to have to get it all apart again to fix this - see below for more soon..

Oh and here’s a the service manual for free, so you don’t have to get fleeced by an eBay seller who’s downloaded a load of free manuals.

Teac C-3x Service Manual